FAQs (in no particular order)

Are you _____________? (French, American, Italian, Spanish)

I’m American.

What’s your name in America?

My American name is Leah, but in Morocco, my name is Layla.

This question usually follows my introduction, as many Moroccans are surprised to hear my name is Layla. Leah will be sounded out a couple times, with varying success. Most will simply revert to Layla once they’ve satisfied their curiosity.

Do you pray?

No.

Some Moroccans I have met will merely shrug in acceptance, although perhaps resignation is closer to the truth. Others will extol upon me the virtues of praying and encourage me to practice. I usually smile, nod, and thank them for the advice. In general, I say as little as possible about religion. While I avoid discussions about my personal beliefs, I should clarify that learning about Islam is very important. Islam and Moroccan culture are intricately connected; one cannot be understood without the other.

Are you Muslim?

No.

I surmise that this answer is less disappointing than not praying since I presume Moroccans anticipate my response. Some have said “mashi mushkil” (no problem); others have asked me to convert. When asked to convert, the intent comes from a good place. Peace Corps Moroccan staff emphasized that it’s a sign people like you—they want you to convert, so you will spend Paradise together. There may also be a selfish motive, as some apparently believe converting a nonbeliever grants them automatic access to Paradise.

Why don’t you eat meat?

When my parents got married, they decided to become vegetarian because meat was expensive and they thought it was healthier. They opted to raise my sister and me this way.

I’m proud to say I can explain some variation of this statement in Darija, although I sense the concept is still peculiar to most people. My younger host cousins are insisting I try meat in Morocco and demand a reason why I won’t consider it. I’m still struggling to supply an answer with the language I have. It was almost easier when I had insufficient language skills two months ago: I simply told everyone I was allergic to meat; I couldn’t articulate anything more complex. While I can say that eating meat would make me sick, I don’t know how to get to the crux of issue—that a part of me strongly identifies with being vegetarian.

Do you speak French?

Un petit peu.

Do you speak Arabic?

A little. I’m learning Darija now because I’m living and working here for two years.

I sometimes amaze people when I address them in Darija. Using the simplest phrase is enough to spark conversation, whether I’m walking in my community or taking a taxi in a larger city,

Do you speak Shlha?

Not yet.

Shlha is the term used to describe the Berber languages in Morocco. People in Foum Oudi speak Tamazight. My host family has been teaching me some phrases, but it’s difficult to create space in my brain for another language right now. 

Are you married?

No.

I have a son who would like to marry you.

Thank you, but no. I’m here to work, not to get married.

But he’s very kind, and you are very nice and beautiful.

Shukran, inshallah. (Thank you, God willing.)

It’s important to try a different tactic if your initial attempt to settle the matter or change the subject fails. This response elicits laughter—in conversation, inshallah translates to maybe, but it can often suggest the plan is rather unlikely because its success is outside of your control.