What’s your story?
It’s not a sequence of
events, but a collection of seemingly trivial moments. You’ll lose interest by
the time I reach high school. By then, you’ll be privy to the rich imaginary
world I led as a child with my stuffed animal bear and moose clans. You’ll know
that my family was one of few traditions, but for ten years, we attended a
bluegrass music festival in Winfield, Kansas. You’ll learn that my elementary
school was the kind of private institution where there were 30 children per
grade and parent-teacher conferences were sacrament. And I’ll tell you that
within months of laying the final floorboards, my parents sold the house they
had been renovating for years, so we could move school districts for the start
of my public high school education. Raised in St. Louis suburbia, privilege
promised security and opportunity.
My story is no longer a
question of where I’ve been, but what direction I’m headed. I’m not moving toward
an obvious ending. Sure, I have long-term goals, but as I once told my mother,
I only confront them when they become short-term goals. And when a moment comes
into focus, my tunnel vision offers a narrow scope, barely a hint of horizon
visible. I’m a 26-year-old college graduate, a current Peace Corps Volunteer serving
in Morocco faced with perennial question plaguing 20-somethings: What’s next?
A Moroccan’s stock response
to any plan is inshallah (Allah
willing). No commitment is made. Plans are the mere fabrications of us mortals.
Allah’s will trumps our best laid plans, even if we only want to go to the post
office. Two years of life in the shadow of the Atlas Mountains has left me with
a distaste for What’s next? It’s no
longer a question I want to entertain but rather one that is force-fed. It
should come with a warning label of possible side effects: sweaty palms,
anxiety, and insomnia.
Bedtime stories still lull
me to sleep: Jim Dale narrates beloved chapters from Harry Potter, “The House Elf Liberation Front” being a personal
favorite. I drift off easily; I already know how the story ends. Once asleep,
nothing disturbs me—not howling dogs or the early morning call to prayer.
Sometimes I can’t fall
asleep, even with Jim Dale whispering sweet nothings about Dobby’s sock
collection. I can’t sleep when I have to travel; my mind repacks my bag. I can’t
sleep when I have a looming presentation; my tongue tastes various phrases,
pronouncing difficult Darija sounds. I can’t relax when plagued by uncertainty;
What’s next? hops on every passing
thought train. I can’t rest when my family travels Stateside; vivid waking
nightmares of fatal car crashes haunt me.
You can’t reason with your imagination.
Meditation won’t soothe my
over anxious mind, which also rejects the solace of books. Serial TV episodes
dull the senses but do not exhaust me. Movement only aggravates my worrisome
state, as I pace about my three-room apartment. Bouts of insomnia need not be a
lonely, quiet affair. After the first few sleepless hours, I resign myself to a
wakeful night and phone home because at 3 a.m., my Internet connection is fast,
and I can reach my parents six hours earlier in Central Standard Time.
As I move further away, I
live later in time to the benefit of my parents; a late-night conversation for
me is table talk for them. I imagine myself sitting with my parents at the teak
kitchen table. Piles of paper cover one half of the table. As my mom sorts
through a stack, she tells me about the latest political blog she’s read by
Andrew Sullivan, and she updates me on her quilting project. My dad regales me
with his latest home improvement venture while he makes a poolish for the
ciabatta he’ll bake tomorrow—he was meant for retired life, he tells me.
Late-night discussions have
been the norm, though. I am my mother’s last-minute child, working right up
until the due date. She has always been my editor: in high school, we stayed up
together editing essays; from college, I would email her 36 hours before a
deadline. Can you take a quick look at
this? reads the subject line. Within ten minutes I would call her: Did you get my email?
My mom has never left her
work at the office. Through the phone I can hear her continue to read a
Standard Operating Procedure. When is it
due?
Tomorrow.
She leans back from the
computer screen and drops her head with a sigh; a sign devoid of any
frustration or surprise, merely resignation. Only after I’ve kept her awake
until 2 a.m. does she say: I wish you
could do this sooner.
Some revisions elicit
greater exasperation: It’s like the time
you tried to write about the children.
It’s a beloved family fable.
In sixth grade, the two-hour
in-class essay was a rite of passage. Each sixth grader had to investigate a
topic that captured the effect of colliding cultures. I wrote about the
Australian Aborigines, whose children were forcibly taken from their homes and
forced into foster care with white families.
By the day of the timed
essay, I had a thorough outline, recounting a clash of cultures, explaining the
Australian government’s legislation, and quoting long passages from memoirs. I
felt prepared; I had every detail at my fingertips. I spent the allotted two
hours writing down the historical and social circumstances that led to a stolen
generation. When the teacher announced time was up, I remember briefly
pleading: But I’m not done. In my
essay, the children never left home.
My departure for my Moroccan
home was marked by nervous excitement; research offered little insight. I had a
Peace Corps site profile from which I learned that my town had a post office
and a cyber café but no bank; there was also access to running water,
electricity, and a road. Wikipedia described my destination as a rural commune,
population approximately 7,000. And at the time, my Moroccan home could not be
found on Google Maps.
During my first month in
town, I lived with a host family. Within the first week, I was readily
acknowledged as the family’s new bnti
(daughter). Baba and I bonded over sudoku, and Mema showed me how to use her handmade
loom. I watched cartoons with my brothers, and I exercised with my sisters. When
I was ready to find my own place, Baba puzzled over the matter: But why? Who will wake you up in the morning?
I don’t own a watch or an
alarm clock. I have a Nokia that flashes and vibrates, emitting melodious
scales on mornings when I need to be awake by a particular time. A rare
occurrence in Morocco, usually reserved for time spent at Peace Corps trainings
rather than my day-to-day life in site. I’ve long since given up trying to
describe a typical day as a volunteer. They do not exist. A typical week is
just as hard to come by. Routine emerges in months at a time, only lasting two
or three before an interruption: a national holiday, an out-of-site training,
or a seasonal shift.
After my first year as a
volunteer, I started to see the patterns: blacking out the summer months when
there was no work to be done; putting a big star next to Eid Kbir, the most
important Muslim holiday, because only after it had passed would students come
to the dar chabab (youth center); reserving
February and March for bigger events when attendance was in full swing. Even
these landmarks are no guarantee, though. The Muslim calendar cycles with the
moon, meaning holidays shift every year. And for an additional twist: not
everyone respects daylight savings, so from spring forward to fall back, you
mark both “new time” and “old time.” In Morocco, time is always in motion, and
more often than not, she runs behind.
I was an hour to late to my
first English class at the dar chabab.
The day before, Baba had finally been persuaded to help me find my own home. He
asked a friend with a house for rent to meet with us the next day. Baba assured
me that our meeting would not interfere with my evening class. They will come in the morning, inshallah.
But the following day, lunch
came and went. When I left for class, Baba stopped me: Where are you going?
To the dar chabab. I have class.
Baba shrugged his shoulders
and pressed his lips together, which usually communicates the response I don’t know. In this instance, it was a
show of If you must, but I’m not sure
this is the best decision. I couldn’t articulate that he had set up the
meeting, that I had told him I was busy this evening.
On my walk to the dar chabab, a car appeared on the dirt
road, stopping next to me. The driver motioned me closer as he made a phone
call. I was at first perplexed until I overheard the driver say dar, the word for house. As the only
American in town, I was easily identified by Baba’s friend on his drive into
town. Within minutes of receiving the call, Baba himself appeared from around
the corner.
Checking my cell, I saw that
I was already late to class, and we hadn’t even begun to exchange pleasantries.
My attempts to reschedule the meeting were rebuffed, and I was herded off to
look at the house. As we walked around the empty home, I noted the passing time
more than the spacious rooms. The house was offered on the spot, and I managed
to say Maybe, inshallah, before
rushing off. I arrived at class flustered and sweaty, apologizing to my waiting
students. Mashi mushkil, they assured
me.
No problem
for it is far better to be late to an appointment than pass up a conversation
with a neighbor en route. Guests show up at your doorstep unannounced, and you
change your plans to accommodate them. Meetings for events drag on because you
agonize over the look of the certificates or how many tea breaks are necessary
rather than programming content.
Baba still remembers how
adamant I was that summer day almost two years ago. It’s a story he tells to
friends over for lunch when I’m present. He tells it with pride—how important
it was to me to be on time—because that was when he learned I was a hard
worker. Baba never tells stories without laughing. When he reaches the end, he
turns to me, nodding his head, a huge smile on his face, and eyebrows raised,
seeking my affirmation that what he said was true. I may be my mother’s last-minute
child, but I am Baba’s prompt bnti.
This transformation means I’ve
adopted behaviors that I’ve long strived to emulate. I show up on time,
modeling the expectations I set for my students. I say no to people, rejecting
invitations for dinner at 10 p.m. I set boundaries, establishing my apartment
as my sanctuary. While these particular behaviors, so un-Moroccan, set me apart
from my community, my patience for process means I’m still in my natural
habitat. I can endure the hours spent waiting for a bus. I am a relentless
bargainer, knowing that a good deal will take at least 30 minutes to acquire. I
will maintain my composure when the police inform me I need more passport
photos for my residence card, even though it’s my third attempt to file the
necessary paperwork at their office.
Engaging with Moroccan
culture was like looking through a kaleidoscope. Amidst the jumbled colors and
shapes, I quickly identified a pattern. I understood how the pieces fit
together because it was a reflection of my own image. Time proves to be
arbitrary because fate always intercedes. You’re never late because you arrive
where you are needed most at the exact time you were meant to be there.
At the end of May, I
completed the 27 months’ service asked of Peace Corps Volunteers. My peers have
applied to graduate school or jobs; they have European tours or Americana road
trips planned for this summer; they want to return to their families or start
their own.
I don’t seek action, though.
A storyteller generates action. She propels herself forward, from university to
her first job, moving toward a career, with a pit stop at graduate school,
continuing from one heart break to the next until she marries, living the young
married life until mature married life makes a mother of her. It’s a familiar
success story, our cultural fairy tale.
But I’m no storyteller. My
narrative has lost sight of What’s next? because
I’m not done. I pursue patterns, and even when I turn in circles, I simply trust
there is an ultimate destination. I’m extending my Peace Corps service for a
third year. I’m fine here.
Great blog! Just so you know there is a similar saying in WV: inshallah is the equivalent of "God willing and the creek don't rise!"
ReplyDeleteLooking forward to seeing you
Allison